Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Introduction to fully fashioned knitwear (Part 05)


Presented by: Rashedul al rashid
Email: .............

Fully Fashion Knitwear


Properties of Yarn

Wool yarn is made of a fiber obtained from the hair of domesticated animals, like sheep and goat. 100% wool is collected from fleece of sheep.
Properties:
  1. Appearance is bulky
  2. It is warm.
  3. 100% wool is not shiny, dull in appearance (because it absorbs the dyes).
  4. Strength is poor (because made from staple fiber).
  5. It does not propagate flame.
  6. Resistant to sunlight is poor.
  7. Resistant to moths/ insects is also poor (because it is a protein fiber which source is animal. So contains fat).
  8. Wet finish is not preferred for wool (because shrinkage percentage is high).
  9. It is heavy -weight than acrylic (acrylic is light-weight).
End Uses:
  1. Used in expensive woven coats, suits jackets, and heavy knit garments such as sweater.
  2. Also used in hats, hand-knitting yarns, rugs, awnings, boat covers, and upholstery.
  • Note on Wool fiber:
  • Wool fibers are collected from sheep fleece where acrylic fiber source is synthetic polymer. So wool is more expensive than acrylic.
  • Wool fibers are hygroscopic. This means wool has the power to readily absorb and give off moisture. It can absorb moisture almost one-third of its own weight.
  • The quality of wool is determined by the following factors, fiber diameter, crimp, yield, color, and staple strength. Fiber diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining quality and price. Wool is also separated into grades based on the measurement of the wool's diameter in microns.
Acrylic yarn is made of synthetic polymer fiber contains acrylonitrile (Ethylene or Acetylene). Appearance is almost same as wool.
Properties:
  1. Appearance is bulky as like wool.
  2. It is warm.
  3. It is shinier than wool (It dyes very well and has excellent colorfastness).
  4. It is light-weight than wool (wool is heavy weight).
  5. Strength is good (because made from filament fiber).
  6. It propagates flame.
  7. It is resilient, retains its shape, and resists shrinkage and wrinkles.
  8. Good resistant to sunlight.
  9. Resistant to moths (because made from chemicals).
  10. Prefer both wet and dry finish (because it does not shrink).
Disadvantage:
  1. It tends to fuzz (or pill) easily and that it does not insulate (prevent leakage of heat) the wearer as well as wool.
End Uses:
  1. Used in heavy and light knit garments such as sweater, socks, sports-wear and children-wear.
  • Note on Acrylic fiber:
  • To be called acrylic in the U.S, the polymer must contain at least 85% acrylonitrile.
Cotton yarn is made of a soft fiber obtained from the cotton plant. It is grown around the seeds of the plant. The fiber is spun into thread for making soft and breathable textile.
Properties:
  1. It is soft and comfortable.
  2. It has good strength.
  3. It is easily handle and sew.
  4. It propagates flame.
  5. It is both machine-washable and dry-cleanable.
  6. It is hydrophilic, which means that cotton have excellent absorbing capabilities. Garments made of cotton absorb perspiration, thus keeping one more comfortable.
  7. Cotton wrinkles easily. To resist this, cotton is being blended with many other natural or synthetic fibers.
  8. It is hypoallergenic, which means it has a low tendency to cause allergic reactions.
End Uses:
  1. Used in normally all types of garments formal, casual and even industrial clothing.
Chenille yarn is also known as pile yarn.
Chenille yarn sourcing:
  • Cotton chenille which is hard and less velvety
  • Acrylic chenille which is soft and more velvety
Types of Chenille:
    1. Lurex Chenille
    2. Rayon Chenille
    3. Rainbow Chenille
    4. Feather Chenille
    5. Space dyed Chenille
Major properties of Chenille yarn:
  1. It can’t twist.
  2. Velvety appearance.
End Uses:
  1. Suitable for ladies and baby wear.
  2. Used in sweaters and outwear.
Cashmere yarn is made of a fiber obtained from the hair of Cashmere goat.
Appearance is same as wool.
Properties:
  1. It is luxuriously soft.
  2. It is light-weight.
  3. It is warm.
  4. It is silky.
  5. It is non-washable (one time use)
  6. Strength is poor (very sophisticated)
End Uses:
  1. Cashmere wool fabric is widely used as cashmere sweaters because of its extremely warmth quality.
  2. It is also used as shawls, scarves, blazers, coats and jackets.
To be continue....

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