Presented by: Rashedul al rashid
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Fully Fashion Knitwear
Knit fabric Stitches/Design
Different types of stitches/design
used in fully fashioned knitwear:
Basic
Category:
- Jersey stitch
- Rib category/ stitch
- Double jersey
Fancy
Category:
- Shaker or half cardigan stitch
- Full cardigan stitch
- Drop knit
- Tuck knit
- Milano stitch
- Pointal stitch
- Zigzag stitch
- Cable (different types)
- Diamond (different types)
Single
Jersey/ Single Knit/ Plain Knit/ Basic Type Stitch:
Properties/Identification:
- Appearance: Technical face has V shape stitch/ jersey stitch and Technical back has semi circle stitch.
Stitch diagram of Single Jersey:
- Semi circle stitch is also known as purl stitch because it looks
like purl.
- Edge curling: Normally occurs T/F to T/B in lengthwise direction but sometimes occurs T/B to T/F in widthwise direction. The reason of it is yarn tension/ torque because the back needles were inactive during manufacturing.
- Edge curling is a disadvantage
because it hampers productivity in linking section.
- Tension is a tightness or
looseness factor of knitted structure.
Remedies
of edge curling:
- After knitting before linking
use iron at the edges.
- We can also use folder or
attachment during linking.
- Dimensional stability: Dimensional stability is comparatively poor than other
knit.
- Dimension means shape. After
stretching the fabric if it recovers to original shape dimensional
stability is good and if does not recover properly stability is poor.
Methods
of increasing dimensional stability:
- Increase loop density (for both
light & heavy knit fabric)
- Apply resin finish (for light
knit fabric, if buyer required because it stiff the fabric)
- Unraveled: We can unrope the yarn from the both end.
- Elasticity (stretch ability): Almost same/ equal elasticity both in lengthwise and
widthwise direction.
- Laddering: Laddering can be repaired in flat bed knitting but not
in circular knitting.
It
is a defect which occur because of-
- Needle head broken. So needle
cannot catch the yarn and yarn loops slips.
- Poor quality yarn which has
slub.
- Loose tension.
To be continue.......................
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