Grey GSM VS Finished GSM of knit fabric

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.

After receiving the yarn we knit the yarn in knitting machine for producing knit fabric. At this stage the fabric remains uncolored formed. We called this as Grey Fabric. Then we dye the grey fabric in dyeing winch (machine) as per our required color.

In this regards the please note that, GSM of the followings Grey fabric are not remain same as ourrequire finished fabric GSM. Normally the GSM of grey fabric remains lower than the finished fabric. After knitting when we dye and washed the fabric then the GSM increase and come to near as our requirement. This increasement of GSM depends on fabric constructions & some knitting variables. Let’s see an example

Say,
Fabric Construction: Single Jersey
Yarn Count : 30/s
Require GSM(finished): 145 GSM
Grey GSM : will be what?

As per practical experience we know for Single Jersey fabric, if we knit the fabric with 30/s yarn then the grey GSM  will increase 15% to 20% after dyeing and finishing.

So, if we need 145 GSM S/J fabric with 30/s
Then we should keep the

Grey GSM = 145 – (15 to 20%), supposed it the percentage will be 18 then
Grey GSM = 145 – 18%
Grey GSM = 119 GSM

So, now we know that, if we need 145 gsm single jersey fabric with 30/s yarn, then we should keep the GSM of grey fabric as 119.

Please find below the GSM different between Grey VS Finished for some more types of fabric.

For single jersey fabric:

If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 20% to 15% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 22% to 20% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 23% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 20/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 21% less from the finished Gsm

Regards
Bipul

Facebook Comments

You may also like...

4 Responses

  1. Its a helpful article.Thanks

  2. ashimdan says:

    I think the calculation for the grey GSM from the dyed GSM will be more accurate if the dyed GSM is divided by the weight-increase factor. Thus, if the grey fabric GSM increases by 20% on dyeing, then to find out the grey GSM from the dyed GSM. Thus if the dyed GSM is 145, then dividing this by 1.20 (1+the % increase in weight, here 20)=120.83 GSM should be the grey GSM. To check, 120.83+20% (weight increase percentage)=144.99. So, in the example stated in the article the grey GSM came to 119, whereas by the above method it comes to 120.83 ie 121.

  3. If grey gsm increase 20% then u r right. But pls be confirmed that its (grey gsm) not 20% less than dyed gsm. If so, than Mr. Bipuls formula will be more Acurate.

    Lets see what bipul vai say!!!

Leave a Reply